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🔎 Hi-Z vs Lo-Z: How to Tell What Your DMM Is Really Measuring | Why It Matters in the Field

Digital multimeter hi-z vs lo-z voltage testing for identifying phantom and induced voltage in electrical circuits

How to Tell if Your DMM is Hi-Z or Lo-Z (and Why It Matters in the Field)

Most digital multimeters used by electricians are high impedance (Hi-Z). That’s great for accuracy, but it can display phantom/induced voltage on floating conductors. A meter with a true low impedance (Lo-Z) voltage function intentionally loads the circuit so weak coupled voltage collapses—helping you separate “meter readings” from a circuit that can deliver hazardous energy.

🧰Input impedance basics 🔎Spec sheet clues ⚡Field tests to confirm 🛡️NFPA 70E implications
🛡️Safety note
Educational content only. Follow your employer’s NFPA 70E program, LOTO procedures, PPE requirements, and your instrument manufacturer’s instructions. Always use the verify/test/re-verify discipline required by your program.

1) What “Hi-Z” and “Lo-Z” Actually Mean

Input impedance is the resistance your meter presents to the circuit when measuring voltage. The higher the impedance, the less current the meter draws from the circuit.

Term Typical input impedance What it does in the real world
Hi-Z DMM (most meters) Often ~10 MΩ (may vary by range/mode) Minimal loading; can display coupled/phantom/induced voltages on floating conductors
Lo-Z voltage mode (some meters) Much lower than Hi-Z (varies by design; commonly in kΩ range) Loads the circuit; weak induced/phantom voltage collapses; persistent voltage suggests real source/backfeed
Field principle: A floating conductor can be “charged” through capacitance or induction. A Hi-Z meter is sensitive enough to display that voltage because it draws almost no current. A Lo-Z function draws enough current to discharge/collapse weak coupled energy.
âś…Key takeaway
Hi-Z is not “wrong”—it’s just more sensitive. Lo-Z is a diagnostic behavior that helps you determine if a voltage reading has meaningful available current behind it.

2) Fastest Way: Check the Meter’s Specs (The Right Line to Look For)

The most reliable answer is in the manufacturer documentation. You’re looking for either:

  • “Input impedance” for voltage ranges (V AC / V DC)
  • A dedicated function labeled “LoZ”, “Low Impedance”, “Low Z”, or similar
What you see in the manual/specs What it indicates What to do next
“Input impedance: 10 MΩ” (for V ranges) This is a standard Hi-Z DMM (normal behavior) Use a Lo-Z method (if available) to check for phantom/induced voltage during troubleshooting
A separate dial position/button labeled “LoZ” Meter has an intentional low impedance voltage function Learn how to enable it and when to use it; it is not always default
“Input impedance varies with range” or “>10 MΩ” Still Hi-Z for normal voltage; may change by mode (e.g., VFD/LPF) Confirm behavior in the field using the controlled tests below
⚠️Important nuance
Some meters include features like LPF/VFD (low-pass filter for variable frequency drives). LPF changes frequency response— it does not automatically mean the meter is Lo-Z. Lo-Z is about loading the circuit, not filtering.

3) Dial & Button Clues: What to Look For on the Meter Itself

Many electricians never notice Lo-Z because it can be a secondary function. Use these clues:

Marking / behavior What it usually means Field confirmation
Dial position says “LoZ” or “V~ LoZ” Dedicated low-impedance voltage test mode Compare same point in V mode vs LoZ mode; ghost voltage should collapse in LoZ
A soft-key toggles “LoZ” on the screen while in V mode LoZ is a selectable sub-function Ensure LoZ icon is actually active before trusting the result
No LoZ anywhere; only standard V ranges Likely a standard Hi-Z DMM only Use a two-pole tester/approved Lo-Z method for “ghost” elimination
Pro tip: If your meter has Lo-Z, it may only apply to AC volts, or it may have separate behavior on AC vs DC. Confirm the manual for exactly which function is Lo-Z and what ranges are affected.

4) Field Confirmation Tests (No “Guessing” Required)

The goal is to perform a controlled comparison between Hi-Z and Lo-Z behavior. You don’t need to know the exact impedance number to confirm whether the meter is acting as Hi-Z only or has a Lo-Z mode.

Test A — “Floating conductor” comparison (common in buildings)

  1. Identify a known floating conductor (example: an open switch leg/traveler in a box, with an adjacent energized conductor present).
  2. Measure to equipment ground using your standard V mode (likely Hi-Z). Note the reading (often 20–90V in real scenarios).
  3. Now measure the same exact points using Lo-Z (if your meter has it) or using an approved low-impedance tester.
  4. Interpret results:
    Reading collapses substantially in Lo-Z → confirms the voltage was largely coupled (phantom/induced).
    Reading remains stable → treat as real source/backfeed until isolated and proven otherwise.

Test B — Load/bleed check (diagnostic concept)

Lo-Z functions act like a built-in “bleeder/load.” If your meter is Hi-Z only, the reading may remain because the meter itself is not discharging the coupled energy. In Lo-Z mode, the meter provides that discharge path and the voltage tends to collapse quickly.

⚠️Safety boundary
Do not “create” conditions that defeat LOTO or bypass required safety steps just to prove a point. Use naturally occurring floating-conductor scenarios or a controlled training environment per your safety program.

5) Testing Ghost/Phantom Voltage with an Analog Meter (When You Don’t Have Lo-Z)

A traditional analog (needle) voltmeter can be a powerful tool for distinguishing phantom/induced voltage from a real energized/backfed source. The reason is simple: many analog meters present a lower input impedance than a modern digital meter in standard V mode, so the meter itself provides circuit loading that collapses weak coupled energy.

Key technical point: Analog meter sensitivity is commonly specified as ohms-per-volt (Ω/V). That means the effective input resistance depends on the voltage range you select.

Analog meter field procedure (practical and repeatable)

  1. Verify the meter on a known live source (or proving unit) before starting.
  2. Select the proper AC volts range (start high, then step down as needed) to avoid pegging the needle.
  3. Measure the suspect conductor to a known reference point (equipment grounding conductor or bonded enclosure).
  4. Watch the needle:
    Phantom/induced: needle barely deflects or decays toward zero.
    Real/backfed: needle produces a firm, repeatable deflection that does not collapse.
  5. Re-verify the meter on the known live source (or proving unit) after testing.
⚠️Important limitations
Analog meters can help with ghost elimination, but use only instruments/methods approved by your program. If voltage remains stable and repeatable, treat as real until isolated and proven otherwise.

Why This Matters Under NFPA 70E (Practical Implications)

When verifying absence of voltage, a Hi-Z DMM can display voltage on a conductor that is not capable of delivering meaningful current. If voltage persists under a Lo-Z method (or is stable and repeatable), treat it as a real source/backfeed until isolated.

â›”Non-negotiable rule
Persistent voltage under Lo-Z behavior is a “real until proven otherwise” condition.

Quick Checklist: How to Identify Hi-Z vs Lo-Z in 60 Seconds

Check What you’re looking for What it means
Manual/spec sheet Input impedance listed for V ranges; any LoZ function mentioned 10 MΩ indicates Hi-Z; LoZ indicates a selectable low-impedance mode exists
Dial markings “LoZ” / “V~ LoZ” printed on dial or screen You have a true Lo-Z function (when selected)
Display icon LoZ indicator appears when engaged Lo-Z is active; without the icon you may still be in Hi-Z mode
Field comparison Same point reads high on V mode but collapses on LoZ Confirms coupled/phantom voltage is being displayed in Hi-Z mode

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